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Before Blog

I'm a beginner.. some what... PG Gundam Aile Strike is the 5th kit.
Here is my list of Gunplas I made before finishing PG Aile Strike..

(in time order)
1. MG Gundam Exia – my very very first gunpla. “ugly nubs”
2. MG Gundam 00 Raiser – started sanding nubs, panel lining and topcoating
3. MG Gundam Unicorn OVA – started shading edges of armours
4. RG Gundam Aile Strike – started hand-painting for details


1- MG Gundam Exia

So here goes, my very first MG Gundam Exia, 
I did nothing other than assembling it.. =/ which I tend to keep it that way for remembrance.

Am I repeating PG Aile Strike's pose? Better stop using this pose.



I had no idea how to remove the nubs back  then, I was too precious on this kit.

Ok, I've change a standing pose.

This is what you get posing it too much without topcoat....

2- MG Gundam 00 Raiser

From here on, I started to do panel lines with Gundam Marker GM01,
Real Touch Markers and top coating with Mr. Hobby Flat Topcoat.




 You can say I bought MG 00 Raiser just for this pose... really...






Probably a good start, there wasn't many panel linings to do.

Started using Real Touch Markers too! love the effect since then


A simple flat top coat really makes it look better! took away the trace of sanding...


3- MG Unicorn OVA

I'm in love when I first saw Unicorn series. I just have to buy it!
Because the Unicorn is pure white, I started shading to make the edges protrude.

I used Tamiya Weathering sets for this one.. It does the job well!












4- RG Gundam Aile Strike

- started hand-painting for details.
I  took this RG as a practice before stepping into PG. so I put on everything i learned from the previous 3 Gunpla.

Because it is so small (1/144), I just want it to be clean and focus on hand painting for details.
It turned out just as I liked.






You really need to be as close as 2 cm to look at this detail.. but I love it...




This is the real practice canvas! =D

So this sums up My past completed works before PG Gundam Aile Strike

19 comments:

  1. Did flat top coat on 1 of my fav kits MG Infinite Justice for the first time yesterday....and I screwed it up. Under hot sun, i got frosting because i sprayed too much and too near. :(

    now the kit is messed up. will try to use thinner to clean it...else have to sand it down (potentially destroying the decals)....and reapply top coat. Sad day for me. Shld've used a cheaper MG for my first time.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm sorry to hear that. If your decals destroyed after Thinning+sanding, you could get waterslide decals to apply them!

      Bandai made waterslides for MG Infinite Justice. Decal 55.
      but remember to spray a GLOSS clear topcoat before applying any waterslides.
      they work only on Glossy surfaces.

      Delete
    2. Thanks a lot for the tip. I not sure where to get waterslide decals at my place :T but my priority now is really to try with thinner. if doesn't work, sand it down...try to avoid the decals if possible, esp the dry transfer...and then apply another layer of top coat.

      it normally takes me few months to complete a straightbuild MG :T thats why i'm reluctant to get another MG IJ :T

      Delete
    3. True, it takes a lot of time to make assemble one if you are into details.
      but Ebay still selling the waterslides for MG Infinite Justice, I just went to have a quick search. that's for your worst case scenario.

      Sanding is better idea than thinning.. because u can control sanding paper's pressure than thinner's strength. try using a very fine sanding paper.

      Delete
    4. I think my sand paper is like 2000 grit? very very fine. will put some water and do wet sanding, if that helps.

      my country is Malaysia. ebay is not so popular here. LOL. will ask around. thanks again.

      will try to spray flat coat on MG Aile Strike tomorrow....not gonna give up.

      Delete
    5. ah... that should be fine then. sand it down slowly..
      Ebay is quite popular around here in Australia. for me at least.

      Good. practice more to get it right! 2 or 3 thin coats are better than one big coat.

      Delete
    6. i think i screwed up :P thinner didnt work...and some parts, i think the original colors came off. =_= and when i sand it...the color looks very old now.

      u can look at the pic in this forum (find by my nickname daydreaming), post 1777 i think

      http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1397850/+1760


      now thinking if i shld try to learn up weathering...and maybe battle effects/dirt to make those mistakes not so obvious :T i sux at this. LOL

      Delete
    7. well that might work too.. if you would give it a try. It would cover up the mistakes. since battle damage has no mistake to begin with.

      Delete
    8. yea...sadly...i think thats the only solution left aside from repainting. :( but for someone who has never painted his kit b4....weather n battle damage are not going to be easy

      Delete
    9. hmm~ Its gonna be fun once you started it. I remember weathering Exia R1 back then.
      it was serious fun. I took no cautions when I did it.

      just.... do it. LOL

      Delete
  2. Stumbled upon your blog on tumblr and I'd like to welcome you to the hobby. :)
    Great start on the MG Exia as it is my 1st MG kit as well, though not necessarily my first gunpla ever. Great progress by the way and love the poses!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! MG Exia is such a good starting point. Loving every bit of it. thanks for the welcome as well!

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  3. nice.. you alot better then me

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  4. guys how to top coating mg unicorn because more than half part is open-close for show some clear parts ?

    thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hmm, I top coated those little hidden parts separately,
      and did a final top coat when it is all closed up.

      hope it helps

      Delete
    2. Could I just transform it to unicorn mode and top coat it??

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    3. @Daniel, You can.. but there are some hidden parts in Unicorn mode (Around the feet, shield, backpack, etc.) not exposed to top coat when you do this.

      So I this is how I topcoat the hidden parts:
      - the feet (in unicorn & destroy mode),
      - shield (take out clear parts, reassemble after),
      - backpack (prior assembly)

      The rest can be topcoated in Unicorn mode without effecting clear pink parts.
      =) happy modelling.

      Delete
  5. This comment has been removed by the author.

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